Subject: lure training stages and tips From: Adele Monroe Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 10:10:16 -0400 To: "SESRA-L@yahoogroups.com" With many thanks to Merril Woolf of Kentfield Racing Whippets for her mentoring over the years. I thought it would help if I described some of the stages of lure training. All training at SESRA is with a drag lure on a straight track, not a continuous loop. For training purposes, this set up provides the most flexibility for working with dogs of various experience levels. It's also the best set up for developing keenness (focus and intensity) on the lure. Here are some basic guidelines to follow. Bring a crate for your dog when it's not running. An excited dog can redecorate the interior of your vehicle. The crate should be big enough for the dog to lie down and stretch out. If you have a small vehicle, you can bring a collapsed crate to set up outside your vehicle. (Also bring a tarp -- preferably silver -- to shade the crate.) A tarp for your windshield/windows will keep your vehicle cool and prevent your dog from seeing the field and getting excited, then frustrated and bored. Bring plenty of water for you and your dog. On hot days, some people bring a one-gallon pump sprayer to cool dogs with after they run. Bring lunch or a snack. Do not allow your dog to socialize with people or other dogs before ALL training is completed. Definitely walk your dog to relieve itself, warm up muscles, and cool off after running, but do not allow it to socialize until after all training is completed for the day. The message to the dog is, when the lure machine is running, chasing the lure is the only entertainment available. Allow the dog to watch one or two dogs (no more than two) before it runs. At SESRA training, I will have the running order posted at the registration table. I will ask for a volunteer to keep track of where we are on the list and who is running next. When one dog is running, the next one or two dogs should be "on deck" waiting their turn and watching, but NOT socializing with other dogs or people (including the owner). When you are on deck, ignore your dog other than occasionally trying to direct its attention to the field. Step out away from other people if the dog is paying attention to them. As soon as the running dog is finished tagging/shaking the lure, bring the next dog onto the field, pick up the lure and carry it to the starting point. I'll meet you. :-) This will help keep training moving briskly. Young and inexperienced dogs will run short distances (50 to 100 ft at first). If the dog doesn't seem very enthusiastic the first time he runs, he will not run again that day. If he is intense about the lure on the first run (and it's not too hot & humid), he will run a second time. If the second run is not as intense as the first run, at the next training session plan to run the dog only once. You want to stop while the dog is still enjoying the game. Repeatedly trying to get the dog to chase the lure when it is not interested will just sour the dog on the experience. If the dog chases the lure but wants to socialize with the people at the finish line or waiting to catch the pup, at the next run (or training session) we'll have someone other than the owner release the dog and have only the owner waiting to catch the dog at the finish. Bring your dog's favorite toy or treats so the dog will associate the finish area with something she likes. Once the dog is running twice with intensity for a short distance, distance increases gradually until the full distance (150 yds if less than 14 months, 200 yards if older) is reached. The rate at which distance increases in training depends entirely on the enthusiasm of the dog. You don't want to progress in training until you are thrilled with the dog's attitude, intensity, and desire for the lure game at the current distance. After increasing distance, if the dog's attention wanders or it is not as focused, drop back to a shorter distance the next time. Wearing a muzzle while running will be introduced as the dog approaches full distance, still running alone. When the dog is running full distance twice in a training session, wearing a muzzle and keenly focused on the lure, it's time to allow it to run with an experienced dog. If the young/inexperienced dog shows any desire to play with the other dog, or turns his head and bumps into the experienced dog, the young/inexperienced dog needs more training running alone, AND training at home to build focus on the lure. A dog that is trying to play with or interfere with another dog is not really focused on the lure game. Dogs that have a strong, instinctive desire to chase the lure will progress through these stages rapidly. Other dogs will take longer to decide to play the game. Progressing through these stages is important, however long it takes. It is much easier to build a strong foundation for lure sports from the beginning than to attempt to retrain a dog that has learned bad habits or become soured on the experience. If your dog acts lackluster about the lure or is easily distracted by the surroundings, you can do a lot at home to build toy and lure drive by borrowing techniques used by agility trainers to develop motivation and speed in their dogs. Instead of teaching your dog to go over jumps and through tunnels, you will be teaching it to chasing and catch -- preferably play tug with -- a white plastic bag. It will be very helpful for you to keep a training log where you note the distance run, number of runs, and the attitude of the dog. Happy training! Adele -- Adele C. Monroe, DVM, MSPH GraceGift Whippets, Naturally Reared North Carolina, USA http://www.gracegift.info/